Isle of Skye
25 to 28 July 2024
On Thursday, 25 July Julie and Anthony departed Glasgow and drove to Skye.
Placard at Glen Lochy overlook.
If you look closely at a map of the Scottish Highlands you will notice a line of deep and narrow lochs (lakes) extending from north of Inverness and south of Fort William. This line marks where the ancient supercontinents of Avalonia and Laurentia collided 430 Million years ago, forming the Scottish highlands. Julie and Anthony’s path followed this line of lochs to Invergarry and turned left to Isle of Skye.
Invergarry Castle
Julie was driving so Anthony was navigating. Anthony found a castle just off our our route, and asked Julie to make a detour down a narrow dirt road. (Idle hands and all). Was it worth the time? You be the judge. (Julie judged No. The pictures make it look cooler than it was)
Derelict boat on Loch Oich just down the hill from the castle.
It was time for lunch so we stopped at Eilean Donan Castle just before we crossed over to Isle of Skye. Eilean Donan Castle sits on Loch Duich near where it meets Loch Alsh and Loch Long (Scotland has a LOT of lochs). Eilean Donan Castle was built in the 1200s and soon after became a Clan Mackenzie stronghold. The English destroyed the castle in 1719 in response to Clan MacKenzie’s participation in the Jacobite rebellion. The MacKenzie family rebuilt the castle in the early 20th century, turning it into a home and museum for MacKenzie stuff and a gallery with portraits dating back to the 1500s.
Views from the Road. Because our Air B&B was in the middle of nowhere. We stopped in Portree to get provisions.
Our accommodation was a tiny house near the village of Ullinish. Despite the size, the house had an adequate bathroom but a single room bedroom/kitchen/living room. We had picked up food to cook in every night here on Skye, so a functional kitchen was important. At first glance, the kitchen seemed inadequate, but after poking around we found an air fryer. We hadn’t ever cooked with one, but figured it out and it did the job.
Above, views in the yard around our tiny house.
Anthony nearly knocked his brains out the first couple of times coming out of the bathroom. Julie recommended he wear his running cap brim up which warned him that he was going to hit is head on the door frame.
Julie and Anthony at the Fairy Pools parking lot.
Friday started out with a drive to the famous Fairy Pools. The Fairy Pools are a series of waterfalls on the River Brittle cascading down from the Black Cuillin mountains into Glen Brittle. It was easy to see why the Fairy Pools are one of the most popular locations on the Isle of Skye. As we were leaving the parking lot, we were buzzed by 3 Scottish Airforce jets.
Tales from the Fairy Pools
We are told that on a warm day lots of people swim in the Fairy Pools. We have yet to see a warm day.
Old Man of Storr
From the Fairy Pools, the path lead Julie and Anthony to the Old Man of Storr, near the top of the Island. As we were driving, we saw a really cool rock formation way in the distance. Anthony had Julie try to get good shots of it. Eventually, we figured out that what we were seeing was the Old Man of Storr, so we stopped taking stupid, long distance shots.
This was a steep and strenuous hike to see the rock formations up close.
Different Angle views of the Old Man of Storr from up close.
On our way around the top of the island, we stopped at Lealt Gorge, where there were some nifty waterfalls.
Whilst driving the Isle of Skye, every turn in the road reveals a new view that makes your soul sing. In no particular order, here are an indulgent number of our soul singing views from Friday’s drive.
The tower above was near the turn off to the Fairy Glen. It was late and we had already done two intense hikes that day, so we decided to skip it. You can’t do everything.
On our way home, we got caught up chasing a rainbow. We missed a turn and ended up in Portree (not close to our house). Julie swore that we had crossed over into a fairy dimension and it took us off track. Was this consequences of skipping the Fairy Glen walk?
Both Anthony and Julie had never seen a rainbow(s?) so brilliant before. It was very magical. The pictures do not do it justice.
Julie and Anthony at Neiste Point
Our Agenda for Saturday was Neiste Point, followed by a hike to Coral Beach then Dunvegan castle. Notice the trend for really busy days?
There were stairs down from the cliffs above Neiste point.
Anthony scarpered up the prominence, where the tiny people are in the picture above. The views were incredible.
Julie and Anthony walked to the abandoned Neiste Lighthouse, which sits on the other side of the prominence.
From the Lighthouse we walked down to a rocky beach where there were people set up with telescopes for Whale/Dolphin/Bird watching. Apparently Whale/Dolphin/Bird watchers get bored sometimes, because there were hundreds of stacked rock pillars just beyond the lighthouse.
Anthony found a fallen stack and set it to right. How long will it last?
Derelict Crane for unloading boats
At one time, a motorized winch was used to convey provisions and people down to lighthouse. This seems like a perfect opportunity for a zipline.
On our way to Coral Beach, we stopped at a Cafe for sandwiches and a coffee. The coffee was served in edible cups. Anthony had to try it. Unfortunately, he was so excited, that he ate the cup before thought to take a photo.
Julie and Anthony carried their camp chairs and blanket a mile out to Coral Beach. This was the first and last time we (intentionally) got into the water in the UK.
Above, Julie and Anthony’s feet (feet selfie) in the water.
Anthony scarpered up the hill overlooking the beach and got some photos of the area.
Again, our day got away from us and we were too late for Dunvegan Castle. We vowed to get up early the next day and visit the castle on our way out.
Dunvegan Castle
On Sunday, Julie and Anthony packed up and said goodbye to our tiny house on the Isle of Skye. But before we left the island we headed back to visit Dunvegan Castle.
Julie, dubious about the boat we are getting into.
There was a boat ride advertised where we bought tickets for the Castle, so Julie and Anthony made a bee line to the docks and signed up for the next available slot. We were on that boat with 6 other people.
We were in luck, there was a pod of dolphins in the bay in the water in front of the castle. Our boat driver, tour guide and marine biologist Mark drove us over to meet them.
But wait there was more. Mark took us over to see a group of harbor seals.
Artic Tern?
Mark, our Guide
After our boat ride Julie and Anthony toured Dunvegan Castle. Dunvegan Castle has been the home of Clan MacLeod since the 1200s. The castle is a residence and museum for MacLeod stuff and a gallery with portraits dating back to the 1500s. It was pretty impressive.
Maps: 1) Fort William to Skye, 2) Fairy Pools, Old Man of Storr and Northern Peninsula 3) Neiste Point and Coral Beach 4) Dunvegan Castle and Inverness.
